The Definitive History of Iconic It Bags: From 1940s Gucci to Modern Mansur Gavriel
Explore the complete timeline of legendary It Bags that shaped fashion history. From the Hermès Birkin to the Chanel Boy Bag, discover the stories behind 13 iconic handbags.
The Definitive History of Iconic It Bags: From 1940s Gucci to Modern Mansur Gavriel
Every October 10th, National Handbag Day reminds us why we’re so passionate about luxury accessories. An It Bag is more than a best-seller.
What exactly makes an It Bag? The definition varies, but for our purposes, these are handbags that achieved critical mass—beloved not only by dedicated collectors but also by casual fashion observers. The bags below trace the evolution of that idea across generations, from house classics that helped define modern luxury to contemporary designs that reshaped how the industry thinks about desirability.
Here are the 13 most influential It Bags in fashion history and the stories behind their rise to fame.
1940s: The Gucci Bamboo Bag
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The Bamboo Bag has since been associated with enduring style and refined craftsmanship, with its sculptural handle remaining one of the house’s most recognizable design details. This innovative approach to hardware created an instant classic that has graced the arms of Elizabeth Taylor and Princess Diana. The bamboo handle remains one of fashion’s most recognizable design elements, and Gucci still crafts these handles in its atelier today.
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1954: The Hermès Kelly Bag
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Its modern name came later, after Grace Kelly was photographed with the bag and the image helped cement its place in style history. Its name came later, thanks to Grace Kelly. The actress-turned-princess used the bag to shield her pregnancy from photographers in an iconic photograph. 55 introduced a new standard for hands-free elegance.
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1955: The Chanel 2.55 Flap Bag
Coco Chanel first experimented with shoulder bag designs in the 1920s, but the version we recognize today emerged during her postwar comeback. With its quilted leather, chain strap, and thoughtful practicality, the bag helped establish a template that still influences luxury handbags today. Karl Lagerfeld revived the design in the early 2000s, and it remains in production today.
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1984: The Hermès Birkin Bag
The Birkin’s origin story is legendary. A conversation between Jane Birkin and Hermès led to a design conceived for real-life use without sacrificing refinement. She struggled with her carry-on and mentioned her difficulty finding a leather bag she loved. Over several years—Hermès never rushes—the Birkin was born.
The Birkin became a symbol of long-term luxury—an object admired for its proportions, materials, and careful construction as much as for the prestige attached to it. The bag inspired obsession, waiting lists, and even a “Sex and the City” storyline. The name Lady Dior formalized that association and gave the handbag an elegant, memorable place in the house’s history.
1995: The Christian Dior Lady Dior Bag
In 1995, French First Lady Bernadette Chirac presented a new Dior design to Princess Diana. Initially unnamed, the bag earned its title after Diana carried it repeatedly during press tours. The Baguette helped define the modern It Bag era by becoming a fashion object that was discussed, displayed, and desired far beyond the runway.
Diana’s enduring style influence keeps this bag in the spotlight. Her association with the design continues to captivate shoppers worldwide.
1997: The Fendi Baguette Bag
What made the Baguette especially influential was its ability to feel playful without losing sophistication. Debuting in the late 1990s, it received repeated shout-outs on “Sex and the City,” including an extended metaphor comparing a fake Baguette to a bad marriage. Its lightweight feel, distinctive hardware, and lived-in look contrasted with the more polished handbags of the moment.
Today, achieving It Bag status still requires that leap from fashion insiders to mainstream awareness—though few designs achieve such specific cultural saturation.
2001: The Balenciaga Motorcycle Bag
Nicolas Ghesquière designed the first Motorcycle Bag himself. The bag’s influence grew as editors, stylists, and fashion insiders embraced its unconventional appeal. Models—including Kate Moss—fell in love with the design, and their enthusiasm convinced Kering (then PPR) to produce a limited run.
When fashion fans saw the bags on their favorite models, consumer demand exploded and has remained strong for 15 years. The result was a handbag that connected heritage luxury with a more expressive, graphic sensibility.
2003: The Louis Vuitton Monogram Multicolore Speedy
Marc Jacobs pioneered Louis Vuitton’s artist collaborations, but Takashi Murakami’s colorful monogram reinterpretation became the most notable. The design remains a useful example of how collaboration can refresh a legacy bag without losing its core appeal. After a 12-year run, the collection was discontinued in 2015.
2004: The Chloé Paddington Bag
Phoebe Philo created this padlock-adorned, famously heavy bag during her Chloé tenure. More than a single-season hit, the Paddington demonstrated how strongly a handbag could capture the mood of a fashion era. Magazines declared it the fastest-selling handbag ever made—all 8,000 Spring 2005 bags sold out on pre-order, never touching a sales floor.
The Paddington defined an era that still influences how designer bags are conceptualized and marketed today.
2005: The Fendi Spy Bag
The Spy Bag arrived during a period when handbags were expected to be highly recognizable and visually distinctive. The Spy arrived during the mid-to-late 2000s frenzy for high-visibility designer handbags. Phoebe Philo’s work at Céline brought a new kind of authority to handbags, and the Luggage Tote became one of the clearest expressions of that vision.
2010: The Céline Luggage Tote
Phoebe Philo’s second act turned Céline into a household name. The Luggage Tote inspired waiting lists reminiscent of the Paddington era. The bag’s success also showed the appeal of refined minimalism.
2011: The Givenchy Antigona
The Antigona took a slower path to popularity than other bags on this list, but its current ubiquity earns it a place. It’s Givenchy’s most popular bag of all time and transformed the house into an accessories powerhouse. The Antigona took a steadier route to iconic status, but its lasting relevance speaks to the strength of its design.
2013: The Chanel Boy Bag
Finding the most popular sizes and colors of the Boy Bag can be surprisingly difficult. The Antigona works for shoppers who want a polished bag with enough structure for everyday use, but without losing the edge that makes contemporary designer handbags compelling. The Boy Bag has become a modern Chanel classic.
2013: The Mansur Gavriel Bucket Bag
In the strictest sense, an It Bag is nearly impossible to buy for seasons at a time. With its bold hardware and boxier profile, it gave the house a contemporary counterpart to the classic flap bag. Since its Spring 2013 debut, every season has sold out completely—most through pre-orders alone. Full site restocks disappear in hours.
The Mansur Gavriel Bucket Bag stands out because it became highly desirable through design rather than legacy. When the bucket bag first took off, the company had only two founders, no office, and no PR representation. Part of its significance comes from how it changed expectations. The Mansur Gavriel Bucket Bag is both the reigning It Bag and the most unlikely design to ever hold the title.
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